After numerous tours to the top of Africa – on the Uhuru peak – on Kilimanjaro over the normal routes, I was very happy last week about the unusual ascent over the great glaciers of the northern Icefields and the Creder Glacier. A few years ago, Thomas Lammle had checked out this route and left bolts in the moonlight wall (an almost vertical rock). With the friendly couple who loved immediately from this adventurous line to the Kibo summit, I travelled to Arusha two weeks ago. My longtime loyal partner on the mountain (Davis Kimambo from Marangu) did not know the route yet and so we were all looking forward to an exciting mountain tour with plenty of ice and a few climbing points.

A slow ascent over the Shira Plateau is ideal for acclimatization. Davis has brought the whole team from Marangu and we are looking forward to seeing you again after a half-year winter break in which I have not seen the boys. The paths on the west side of the massif are less wide and crowded and much less frequented as on the popular main route. The view from the Shira ridge at the Cathedral Rock is impressive.

The last night before the crossing of the Kibo and the summit ascent we spend at 4630 m in the tent at the lava tower. We are all alone up there, no other team is on the way to the Creder Glacier – many people do not yet know this route. Also many African guides say: "Moonlight wall? Never have been there! "

Thomas Lammle had given me a topo of the moonlight Wall. Davis and I are exploring the day before the climb. Completely pathless but with some flair and old stone markings we find the rock and the bolts with the prayer flags from Nepal at the entrance.

In the middle of the night we break up the next morning. We know it will be a long day and if we still have abseiling actions on the Creder glacier we need even longer. Just before dusk we climb through the moonlight Wall. Only 25 m in the Light II degree. Then there are endless rocky ribs and boulder slopes before we reach the glacier shining in the sun. Enthusiastic and euphoric we hike over this relic from the last Ice Age – more than two hours over ice and firn always upward, far outside is Kenya. Just fantastic and great! We rejoice and enjoy this exclusive lonely way to the roof of Africa.

A narrow ramp leads us back to the Lavaboden at the edge of the foot which partially drops up to 60 m vertically at the edge. From here it is not far to the edge of the Reuschkraters. From there, you could descend to the ash pit. But because we are already tired we leave the view in the still active vent for today and get further on to the Uhuru-peak. All of Davis, too, are completely happy and impressed when we stand at the top of one another! A great tour for all those who love easy climbing passages and glacier tours with a pioneering character. I'm sure I'll take this enchanting path to the BERIE program!

 

 

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